Any automechanics?

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Treebore
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Any automechanics?

Post by Treebore »

Or at least someone who knows what it means when your battery meter starts "jumping around" and hanging around the n/o part of "normal" for 5 or ten minutes when its usually is around the m/a, and then goes back to the m/a for the rest of the time I drive?

Alternator going bad?
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Rigon
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Post by Rigon »

Don't know about that, but if you have an Autozone near by, they'll test it for free (granting that it is a new model).

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Jonathan of White Haven
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Re: Any automechanics?

Post by Jonathan of White Haven »

Treebore wrote:
Or at least someone who knows what it means when your battery meter starts "jumping around" and hanging around the n/o part of "normal" for 5 or ten minutes when its usually is around the m/a, and then goes back to the m/a for the rest of the time I drive?

Alternator going bad?

Why is it that some automakers install a voltmeter ("battery gauge") that doesn't actually tell you how many volts your battery is putting out?

Average discharge for a battery in good condition ranges from 13.2 volts (low) to 14.3 volts (normal-high). If this is the original equpment battery, and your car is 4-5 years old, it's probably time to replace the battery.

However, as Rigon suggested, you can get the battery and alternator checked for free at Auto Zone. You should do this.

BTW, the alternator usually includes a little thingy called a "voltage regulator" This can go bad for any number of reasons. "Bad" can be anything from not charging the battery at all to overcharging and boiling out all of the water. Which means replacing the battery...along with the alternator.

Be glad that you don't drive an old Mopar. The ammeter needle constantly bouncing around would drive you nuts, even though that's perfectly normal operation.
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torren
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Post by torren »

I agree with Jonathon, I have many batteries go out doing the same thing yours is doing and have had several altenators do it to, heck I even had the wiring to the alt. get old and did it to. The only way to be for sure is Autozone free check.
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Treebore
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Post by Treebore »

OK, there is an Autozone I can go to, I better have them check it before I end up on the side of the rode broke down.
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Since its 20,000 I suggest "Captain Nemo" as his title. Beyond the obvious connection, he is one who sails on his own terms and ignores those he doesn't agree with...confident in his journey and goals.
Sounds obvious to me! -Gm Michael

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Jonathan of White Haven
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Post by Jonathan of White Haven »

torren wrote:
I agree with Jonathon, I have many batteries go out doing the same thing yours is doing and have had several altenators do it to, heck I even had the wiring to the alt. get old and did it to. The only way to be for sure is Autozone free check.

Heh. I have to admit that I got lucky with my '98 Chrysler Sebring Limited convertible. I bought it new in April 1998. The OEM battery lasted until early 2005. Go fig.

It was a PITA to replace, though. The battery compartment is behind a panel in the left-front wheelwell. The biggest problem was that the left-front wheel was corrosion-welded to the hub (dissimilar materials--aluminum wheel, cast iron hub, moisture and corrosion caused them to stick together). The mechanic (we certainly couldn't get the wheel to release) had to smack it smartly several times with a 5-pound plastic sledge to get the wheel to break loose.
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serleran
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Post by serleran »

My baby, the auto mechanic, says it could be the voltage indicator that shows a little battery image -- it should move around (hover at around 12 - 14) and is normal and should never, ever, drop below 9 and if it does, the battery is hosed but the more stuff you plug in, the more it'll spike about. If you don't have one, you should have the battery tested to see what ranges its moving through.

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Post by Tadhg »

Ahh, auto mechanics! Carburetors, distributor caps, timing belts, plugs, points and condensers.

VWs, in the old days and SAABS. Gear shifting and speed shifting when drag racing. My SAAB 900 was the best car I've ever owned. 14 years and some 100+ K miles

My last SAAB, however didn't make any good noise when I put it through the gears, and it was turbo charged (25th anniversary, no less).

Even though it was SUPER fast, it didn't hum like a sports car. (That was GM, no doubt.). The soul of the Viking machine was lost when GM bought them.

Oops, rambling. Anywho, nowadays it's definitely all about gas milage.

My Pontiac Vibe is 35 MPG, but the next car has to be 40+. I like those Small Cars a lot.

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Post by Rigon »

Rhuvein wrote:
My Pontiac Vibe is 35 MPG, but the next car has to be 40+. I like those Small Cars a lot.

I'll keep all comments to myself...
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Treebore
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Post by Treebore »

Well, I took it to Auto Zone, the diode was bad in the alternator, so bought a new one (almost $200 frikkin dollars!! ), and my son and I replaced it this evening. We even hopefully stopped a radiator hose leak we located earlier today, I'll know that in the morning. The 15 mile road test showed the electric meter steady at about 16 volts the whole way, with radio, AC, High Beams, etc... So apparently I did everything right.
Unfortunately it screwed up my Tuesday game.
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The Ruby Lord, Earl of the Society

Next Con I am attending: http://www.neoncon.com/

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Since its 20,000 I suggest "Captain Nemo" as his title. Beyond the obvious connection, he is one who sails on his own terms and ignores those he doesn't agree with...confident in his journey and goals.
Sounds obvious to me! -Gm Michael

Grand Knight Commander of the Society.

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