Want to see a "rogue" climbing a 400 foot rockface?

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Aramis
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Want to see a "rogue" climbing a 400 foot rockface?

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Rigon
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Re: Want to see a "rogue" climbing a 400 foot rockface?

Post by Rigon »

Are you posting home movies again?

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Arduin
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Re: Want to see a "rogue" climbing a 400 foot rockface?

Post by Arduin »

Not bad at all! Still not as fast as my rogue wearing leather armor. :mrgreen:

I remember something about this guy in the late 90's in California. Can't remember what though.
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serleran
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Re: Want to see a "rogue" climbing a 400 foot rockface?

Post by serleran »

Arduin wrote:I remember something about this guy in the late 90's in California. Can't remember what though.
1998, in Yosemite, his rope failed during a controlled free fall and he died...

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Re: Want to see a "rogue" climbing a 400 foot rockface?

Post by Arduin »

serleran wrote:
Arduin wrote:I remember something about this guy in the late 90's in California. Can't remember what though.
1998, in Yosemite, his rope failed during a controlled free fall and he died...
That would make the news alright.
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Rotten
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Re: Want to see a "rogue" climbing a 400 foot rockface?

Post by Rotten »

He sure made that climb look easy. Very fearless. Too bad about his death.

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Re: Want to see a "rogue" climbing a 400 foot rockface?

Post by dachda »

I'm thinking less a rogue and more a ranger with his wilderness climb ability, or a barbarian with his deerstalker ability.

But wow, that dude had some supreme confidence in his skills at that point in time. Ironic if his death was from a broken rope and not from when he was soloing as shown in the video.

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Re: Want to see a "rogue" climbing a 400 foot rockface?

Post by dachda »

Here's a clip showing what he was doing when he died. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wY6YsM5Rh0Y

He wasn't climbing, but was free rope jumping from 1000 feet up. That's when the rope broke. the video shows how it did it successfully, but he left his ropes on the rock walls for three weeks. when he went to retrieve them, he decided to jump again, and one of the ropes probably worn weak from weather, snapped.

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Re: Want to see a "rogue" climbing a 400 foot rockface?

Post by mmbutter »

From the investigation into his death (specifically the analysis of his climbing ropes):

"For some reason he moved his jump site. In doing so he crossed the ropes (either on the retrieval line or on the main jump line). When he jumped the first knot above the one he was tied in with slid down a section of rope several lengths up. The sheath was heavily melted and removed in several sections on this upper part of the rope. The knot that slid down the rope was melted in multiple locations and was melted nearly completely through, deep inside the knot. This knot was not tight, yet others in the system were (this is the one open question that is unresolved as far as I know). It is my conclusion that Dan's rope was cut by his own rope sliding against itself. Use of a magnifying glass indicated to me that the cut surface was due to sliding action in one direction. There was no evidence of hot cutting with a knife or other type of instrument. I conducted further experiments in my lab to see if tensile overload could have caused this failure. The samples I tested were significantly different in that they were heavily frayed and tattered. My analysis of Dan's ropes in general was that they were in great condition. There was no evidence to me of damage due to previous falls, uv exposure, or weather."

So, it looks like he made a mistake and basically ended up cutting his own rope via friction.

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Re: Want to see a "rogue" climbing a 400 foot rockface?

Post by Arduin »

mmbutter wrote: So, it looks like he made a mistake and basically ended up cutting his own rope via friction.
Two major mistakes. 1) used weathered rope for safety. 2) changed site thus cutting rope as you mentioned.
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Re: Want to see a "rogue" climbing a 400 foot rockface?

Post by mmbutter »

"There was no evidence to me of damage due to previous falls, uv exposure, or weather."

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Re: Want to see a "rogue" climbing a 400 foot rockface?

Post by Arduin »

mmbutter wrote:"There was no evidence to me of damage due to previous falls, uv exposure, or weather."
SOP in climbing. You don't use after months of exposure. And you NEVER use if same line has previously prevented a fall. (see instructions from companies that produce these lines) Unless examined by a materials lab the quote is meaningless too.
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Re: Want to see a "rogue" climbing a 400 foot rockface?

Post by mmbutter »

Arduin wrote:
mmbutter wrote:"There was no evidence to me of damage due to previous falls, uv exposure, or weather."
SOP in climbing. You don't use after months of exposure. And you NEVER use if same line has previously prevented a fall. (see instructions from companies that produce these lines) Unless examined by a materials lab the quote is meaningless too.
That quote was from the scientist in the materials lab that did the analysis of the ropes. Besides, he had successfully used those ropes on the previous day.

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Re: Want to see a "rogue" climbing a 400 foot rockface?

Post by Arduin »

mmbutter wrote: That quote was from the scientist in the materials lab that did the analysis of the ropes. Besides, he had successfully used those ropes on the previous day.
Then he was just in violation of the manufacturers instructions to not EVER reuse a line that had previously been used to stop a fall. And to be suspicious of lines left out in weather for long periods of time.
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Rotten
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Re: Want to see a "rogue" climbing a 400 foot rockface?

Post by Rotten »

The ropes were used 3 weeks before according to the video I watched.

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Re: Want to see a "rogue" climbing a 400 foot rockface?

Post by Andrew »

One way or another my mind is blown from watching the video.

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